2000 Buick Lesabre Tach Will Stop Working Then Started Again

Buickguy123

Going to work this morn 60 mph on the state highway I noticed the tachometer not working. Car run ok. Just now car started up fine and teach was off for 5 miles then came on but dropped to 0 for a split 2nd before shooting back to 1600 RPMS. 60 MPH cruise control on. Did this nigh v times. Motorcar ran fine. No SES. I continue reading that maybe the crankcase position sensor is potentially failing.?

Alan 55

Going to work this morning 60 mph on the freeway I noticed the tachometer non working. Car run ok. Just now car started upwards fine and teach was off for 5 miles then came on but dropped to 0 for a split second before shooting back to 1600 RPMS. lx MPH cruise control on. Did this about 5 times. Automobile ran fine. No SES. I keep reading that perhaps the crankcase position sensor is potentially failing.?

This may accept a connection to a potential CPS sensor issue or could be unrelated in my opinion. I would drive it and be alert to whatsoever new symptom or condition that may occur.

Mad_Coachman

Cold solder joints tin can cause intermittent operation of your tach. If it was your CPS trust me your car would Not exist running consistently well.

BuickGirlFromMars

I had cut outs of my tach, with no adverse running or starting issues, for weeks earlier i had to permit my car cool to start it and information technology would stall at random infrequently. I lived with the issue of stall and no start for about a week and and then my crank sensor went in that weekend. then it broken on my new harmonic balancer. then i towed my auto upwardly my big ass loma, put a napa sensor on and the original harmonci balancer, and it was problem complimentary till my contempo do in anger, hurting, sadness, and swearing near a month ago when it was all stock-still.

That sensor was a damn AC delco too. Freaking cheap aftermarket balancer..

Only, key difference here, my tach NEVER read incorrect or bounced, it was dead on or 0. I had a code related to the 18x circuit of the crank sensor.
Have you checked for codes? If no code or reason to suspect crank sensor, your dash cluster is 99% likely the problem. yous can verify this with using a 20$ scan tool from walmart and checking tach in the alive data while comparison to the running car tach

if they match, your crank sensor or interuptor system has an result or the wiring to the PCM and it

Buickguy123

I had cut outs of my tach, with no adverse running or starting issues, for weeks earlier i had to allow my car absurd to start information technology and it would stall at random infrequently. I lived with the outcome of stall and no kickoff for about a week then my crank sensor went in that weekend. and so it broken on my new harmonic balancer. then i towed my car up my big ass hill, put a napa sensor on and the original harmonci balancer, and information technology was trouble gratis till my recent exercise in anger, pain, sadness, and swearing well-nigh a month ago when information technology was all fixed.
That sensor was a damn AC delco too. Freaking inexpensive aftermarket balancer..

But, key deviation here, my tach NEVER read incorrect or bounced, it was dead on or 0. I had a lawmaking related to the 18x excursion of the crank sensor.
Have y'all checked for codes? If no code or reason to suspect crank sensor, your dash cluster is 99% likely the problem. you can verify this with using a xx$ scan tool from walmart and checking tach in the live data while comparison to the running car tach

if they lucifer, your crank sensor or interuptor system has an result or the wiring to the PCM and it

Ok then today I had to repair the radiator lines into the radiator just beneath the radiator cap. And then collection the car one mile to a store. I came out and no start. No plough over zip. So, I got on the ground and wiggled the harness into the CPS making sure it was tight etc. Behind the harmonic balancer of class. Turned the key over and the beast started right upwards. And so, alas, I am going to pull the tire off and the harmonic balancer and will replace the sensor. Clean it all up. Do I need a puller on the 93 PA? I believe so. YouTube videos. LOL

Buickguy123

Cold solder joints can cause intermittent operation of your tach. If it was your CPS trust me your machine would NOT be running consistently well.

Today and twice in the terminal few weeks the car would not start. The first two times I jumped the bombardment with car ii and both times it started up. Today, I wiggled the harness wires to the CPS and jumped back into the vehicle and is started right upwards. Teach yet acting odd so I am sure the CPS is an effect. Volition replace both the harmonic balancer and the CPS. 93 PA SC ultra do I demand a puller? Cheers!

Mad_Coachman

Today and twice in the terminal few weeks the car would non start. The start ii times I jumped the battery with car ii and both times information technology started upwards. Today, I wiggled the harness wires to the CPS and jumped dorsum into the vehicle and is started right upward. Teach notwithstanding acting odd so I am sure the CPS is an effect. Will replace both the harmonic balancer and the CPS. 93 PA SC ultra practice I demand a puller? Thanks!

Information technology'southward a PITA. I've washed two over the virtually twenty years that I have been dealing with this platform of car. Try to secure your wiring as Buick Girl is suggesting.

Buickguy123

View attachment 29766
the very fact wiggling the wiring and it started instantly after means i would showtime my diagnostic at visually inspecting the harness for the sensor..

Aye I will unplug that harness and make clean the connector. I done the car last week and I like to spray underneath the vehicle. Could be h2o got into the connector. Will spray WD 40 and clean the connector. Thanks!

Buickguy123

It'southward a PITA. I've done 2 over the nearly xx years that I have been dealing with this platform of car. Try to secure your wiring as Buick Girl is suggesting.

Audio wisdom. Will clean up that connector today.

Buickguy123

It'due south a PITA. I've done two over the most twenty years that I have been dealing with this platform of automobile. Endeavor to secure your wiring as Buick Daughter is suggesting.

There are many videos on YouTube showing how to remove or supplant the harmonic balancer to get to the sensor. None of the videos are very consummate like a Chris Prepare video. Some are using the ignition to unloosen the bolt? Interesting...

BuickGirlFromMars

Yes I will unplug that harness and make clean the connector. I washed the car last week and I like to spray underneath the vehicle. Could be h2o got into the connector. Volition spray WD xl and clean the connector. Cheers!

you and your WD-40. dont use WD forty on plastics liek the connectors, its a petroleum cleaner in the simplest terms, you may degrade the plastic if non ruin it. its sometime and tired. use a proper Electric CONTACT CLEANER spray. CRC, business firm names, etc all produce a spray for it. Fifty-fifty wd-forty make!!!! It actually is a nice one ive compared it to 2 brands and prefer theirs.

WD40 is to be used on metal parts to clean up things not plastics to dry out. Electrical contact cleaner has solvents which speed upwardly evap HUGE and are completely safe to safety and plastics(or well-nigh of them)
when i say it evaps fast, information technology evaps fricken fast. WD40 doesnt like to evap much. and so use silicone grease to seal connector once again

Buickguy123

you and your WD-40. dont utilize WD 40 on plastics liek the connectors, its a petroleum cleaner in the simplest terms, you may degrade the plastic if not ruin it. its old and tired. use a proper Electrical CONTACT CLEANER spray. CRC, house names, etc all produce a spray for it. EVEN wd-40 brand!!!! It actually is a nice one ive compared information technology to 2 brands and prefer theirs.
WD40 is to be used on metal parts to clean upwardly things not plastics to dry. Electrical contact cleaner has solvents which speed up evap HUGE and are completely safe to condom and plastics(or most of them)
when i say it evaps fast, information technology evaps fricken fast. WD40 doesnt like to evap much. and then use silicone grease to seal connector over again

Yeah WD xl is not for electric. I actually prefer liquid wrench much more than WD 40 to remove old rusted bolts nuts etc. Anyhow, I jacked the car up and removed the tire. I was non able to unplug the harness connector to the sensor. Seems you have to remove the harmonic balancer to go to that. Question? Where does the wire run to as it leaves the sensor? I did modify the fuel filter as I was down there anyway. Not certain that was bad merely $12 why not? The car is starting. Aforementioned security light on for 32 seconds before going out. Same off again on again squeal from Supercharger at times. When warmed up it goes away it seems? The tachometer upon beginning up is dead for well-nigh a half mile to 3 miles and so works normal but jumps effectually at times.

Buickguy123

Sound wisdom. Will clean up that connector today.

When you inverse your CPS sensor twice did yous apply whatever grease on the harmonic balancer before putting it back on? I inquire because in i video the guys put grease on the balancer. How almost coating the tough bolt with anti seize before reinstating? Lots of videos on YouTube on this and very few are very complete. The talk about a "central" when putting the HB back and that confuses me besides. Cheers!

BuickGirlFromMars

When you lot changed your CPS sensor twice did you lot use any grease on the harmonic balancer before putting it back on? I ask because in one video the guys put grease on the balancer. How about coating the tough commodities with anti seize earlier reinstating? Lots of videos on YouTube on this and very few are very complete. The talk almost a "key" when putting the HB back and that confuses me equally well. Thanks!

the bolt is TORQUE TO YIELD and coated with antiseize past GM. If you put anything on the threads, at all,your modifying the amount of torque a torque wrench can written report its putting on. in the case of tightening, it tin cause information technology to be too easy to turn, thus allowwing overtightening which theoretically could compromise the bolt since its stretching to begin with, and that could crusade it to fail or snap on install

The bolt as well should not use an impact

The fundamental is woodruff key, used on shafts to go on a hub from existence able to turn, there is science to information technology but you see a lot on small equipment like lawn mowers and mechanical shafts that dont use flanges
also called a keyway, saginaw P pumps used to have a bolt and they had a central, its just a small chip of oval like metal that slightly recesses on shaft and pulley or dampner slots over it.

Press fit is another kind, interference awarding. This likely isnt what gm did because pressfit would require some SERIOUS forced to put a pulley on or take information technology off at this size. older P pumps were printing fit, like what are on our cars with CB pumps

clean threads and shaft, use new commodities everytime installing a creepo caster. I used the one-time bolt to push the pulley on most of the way, not how its supposed to be washed, but then i torqued it up with the new bolt to become clamping force.

Buickguy123

the bolt is TORQUE TO YIELD and coated with antiseize past GM. If you put anything on the threads, at all,your modifying the corporeality of torque a torque wrench can report its putting on. in the case of tightening, it can cause it to exist likewise like shooting fish in a barrel to plough, thus allowwing overtightening which theoretically could compromise the commodities since its stretching to brainstorm with, and that could crusade it to fail or snap on install
The bolt also should non use an impact

The key is woodruff central, used on shafts to keep a hub from existence able to turn, there is science to it but y'all see a lot on minor equipment like lawn mowers and mechanical shafts that dont use flanges
also called a keyway, saginaw P pumps used to have a bolt and they had a key, its merely a pocket-sized fleck of oval like metal that slightly recesses on shaft and pulley or dampner slots over it.

Press fit is some other kind, interference awarding. This probable isnt what gm did considering pressfit would require some SERIOUS forced to put a pulley on or accept it off at this size. older P pumps were press fit, like what are on our cars with CB pumps

clean threads and shaft, use new bolt everytime installing a crank pulley. I used the erstwhile commodities to push the pulley on most of the way, not how its supposed to be done, but and so i torqued it up with the new bolt to get clamping force.

I wish I could find a Chris Prepare video on how to change the Crankcase Position Sensor. His videos are the best. Others are just $.25 and pieces. LOL

2007LucerneCXL

A FSM is a more useful than hoping it's done right on YouTube LOL.

Mad_Coachman · April 11, 2021

Today and twice in the last few weeks the car would not start. The first ii times I jumped the battery with car two and both times it started up. Today, I wiggled the harness wires to the CPS and jumped dorsum into the vehicle and is started right upward. Teach still acting odd so I am sure the CPS is an issue. Will replace both the harmonic balancer and the CPS. 93 PA SC ultra exercise I need a puller? Thanks!

I initially rented a puller from AutoZone when I did my commencement one virtually 15 or so years ago. You will need to purchase the proper screws to fit the caster as that particular size was Non in the kit. Information technology's not an easy job.
Edit: if your wiggled wires and it started I would look into your wiring integrity earlier irresolute the sensor itself. You may take chafed insulation or flaky connections. It'due south non an easy replacement like a MAF sensor, cam sensor etc. etc.

BuickGirlFromMars

t

I initially rented a puller from AutoZone when I did my first i almost 15 or so years agone. You will need to purchase the proper screws to fit the pulley as that particular size was NOT in the kit. It'south not an easy job.
Edit: if your wiggled wires and it started I would look into your wiring integrity earlier changing the sensor itself. Y'all may have chafed insulation or flaky connections. It's not an easy replacement like a MAF sensor, cam sensor etc. etc.

autozone kit in the last couple years DOES have the right parts. I can confirm. Here's mine. The kit is the same every bit the old 1 but with the three bolts in that location in the side. Then now it'southward useful for us lol

Buickguy123

I initially rented a puller from AutoZone when I did my first one about 15 or so years ago. Yous will need to purchase the proper screws to fit the pulley equally that item size was Not in the kit. Information technology's non an easy job.
Edit: if your wiggled wires and information technology started I would look into your wiring integrity before irresolute the sensor itself. Y'all may take chafed insulation or flaky connections. Information technology's not an easy replacement like a MAF sensor, cam sensor etc. etc.

Well even if information technology is the wire I will still need to remove the balancer to admission the wiring harness. When you put the harmonic balancer dorsum on what process did you lot follow? Information technology has to be lined upward a certain style? Something about a key? One boyfriend on YouTube just tightens information technology upwardly with an affect wrench and uses loctight. And then some say y'all have to agree the balancer to proceed it from moving? I started it upwardly yesterday and it started right up but the tachometer stayed on zero for several minutes then started working. Seems to be the pattern. Supposedly there is a fuse related to the CPS? Thanks.

2000 Buick Lesabre Tach Will Stop Working Then Started Again

Tachometer going out.

Attachments

0 Response to "2000 Buick Lesabre Tach Will Stop Working Then Started Again"

Postar um comentário

Iklan Atas Artikel

Iklan Tengah Artikel 1

Iklan Tengah Artikel 2

Iklan Bawah Artikel